How We Holiday: A Ten Day California Road Trip
For as long as I have known Joe (23 glorious years) he has been obsessed with doing a California road trip. His obsession reached its peak ten years ago when our good friends, Sam and Gary, took their four kids in a Winnebago to travel the West of America for a few months, a brave move indeed, IMO. They had such a brilliant time that every year since then, Joe has mooted to the family that we do the same and every year, he is knocked down in favour of sun, sea, pool and beaches by my lazy loving children (oh, and knock OFF’s as well; sometimes I think that the only reason my children want to go on holiday is to build their collection of football shirts). There’s also always been the small matter of cost - it’s certainly not a budget holiday by any means and there has always been something else that has required preference over his West Coast dream. Anyway, this year Joe turns 50 and we could no longer stop his dream from coming true. This was massively helped by the fact that I managed to find reasonably priced flights to LA (I am ASTONISHED at how much they vary day to day) and the fact that we didn’t do any of my intended plans for my own 50th back in 2021 thanks to the joys of Covid. So in January this year, we bit the bullet and booked. Joe was VERY happy.
Never knowingly not mistaken for the Griswolds.
So what was our plan? The flights were to and from LA so we needed to build our trip around this as a base. Many people start in San Francisco and finish in LA but this wasn’t going to work for us so I planned that we’d drive the California Highway 1 through to San Francisco and then ditch the car to fly back to LA to finish the trip, thus including Joe’s dream of cruising the Pacific coastline and the Big Sur. We’d start the journey with a few days in LA, then stop twice on the way to San Francisco to break up the almost 400 mile car drive into bite sized chunks (AKA shorter times so that we wouldn’t be in the car for too long/create a wanting to punch a family member hard situation). I have to say that the driving was the bit that the kids were dreading, but actually, it was REALLY great - there was so much to see on the route and the car had Bluetooth so they could play music (we put in place a no hardcore grime rule). Luckily, my sons are both dedicated gamers so they were able to plot our route via the medium of Grand Theft Auto which also thrilled them.
There were definite highs and lows. Highs were experiencing all the things that we’ve seen from afar for years, such as the Golden Gate Bridge, Alcatraz and the Hollywood sights, plus unexpected bonuses such as seals basking on a beach within touching distance, eating the most delicious cinnamon buns at every opportunity and Leo getting to try out every TikTok burger restaurant that he wished. My kids will be telling their friends for years about their experience of walking down Venice boardwalk in a smog of weed whilst Max was offered magic mushrooms. Our trip to see the Rams was an experience never to forget, heightened by the fact that Joe had omitted to advise Ella and I that the tickets stated a ‘clear bag policy’ so we arrived with full handbags. Being escorted to the bag valet by Security with my daughter holding up a sanitary towel packet in full audience view shouting ‘what am I supposed to do with this?’ is a memory that will be with us forever.
Anyway, I documented our trip via my Instagram Stories and I was asked by many if I would lay out what we did once home for those of you considering doing the same. Quick note before I start about the legal drinking age - it’s 21 which was a bit of an issue for our two older kids, Ella and Max, who are used to regular outings to PAP (if you know, you know) and Vodka Revs and was a particular issue when Max received his A’Level results whilst travelling and couldn’t have a beer. However, luckily I am WELL over 21 so was able to drink plenty of delicious Californian wine on their behalf. I know, I’m selfless. PS: the rose was particularly delicious.
Day 1-3: Los Angeles
Where We Stayed:
First stop was the Ace Hotel in Downtown Los Angeles. The Ace in Shoreditch was my coffee/wine stop before it sadly shut in lockdown so I knew that it could hit my interior expectations with no issue. Another reason for booking is that it had two Queen beds in each room, a biggie when you have three children, plus the icing on the cake, a rooftop pool. Finding a Hotel with a pool in LA wasn’t that easy and seeing as our previous holidays had been water based, I thought this was an excellent option in case my kids tired of touring. What I DIDN’T realise was that the pool was less quick dip and more sex pond. Don’t get me wrong; the rooftop was utterly gorgeous. Bar in the middle, seating area to the left and pool area to the right. But it was very much aimed at partying/DJ stylie socialising and very unsuitable for anyone under the age of 18 (or, in fact, 21 as you wouldn’t be allowed to even pop your toe in after 7pm if you were under the legal age) or anyone not wearing tiny neon swimwear. On the plus side - of which there were many - the views and decor were fabulous (Johnny Depps old apartment was directly in eye line), the service was super quick and friendly and the decor was glorious. The rooms were equipped with pretty much everything that we required, the beds had massive padded headboards and the showers were excellent. We loved it so much that we decided to buy one of the Ace Hotel hoodies in reception, until we discovered they were a mere $160. Dear God, America is expensive.
Where We Went:
We were located in the Fashion district of Downtown which we all decided early on was definitely the best place to be. It’s not as slick as being closer to the main stretch but it’s way less touristy - you can jump in an Uber and be in central LA within 15-20 minutes max. There’s some big name and smaller brand stores close by - we were within a few seconds of West Elm, Ganni and Urban Outfitters - so good for a wander. There’s also a Banksy directly opposite the Hotel which we excitedly discovered (well, I did, the rest of them had very little interest, obvs). As with all our stops, we had limited time to peruse so Joe had booked us on a bus tour of LA in advance. I am always quite concerned when Joe is tasked with booking anything (long term readers will remember he once booked us flights to Ibiza with our friends a month too early, right in the middle of Ellas GCSE’s) but he came up trumps this time. After breakfast, we headed for the Walk Of Fame to catch our trip (apparently you not only have to be nominated on about 20 counts to be considered for a star, but you also have to pay $50k for the privilege - true story) which was with a company called Golden Ticket. There are HUNDREDS of bus/coach based tours around LA and although it’s easy to scoff that it’s much cooler to do it all at your own pace, LA is f**king HUGE and spread out for miles and if you’re limited for time, there is simply no better way. You can catch the open top ones but Joe had booked a minibus which we shared with two other riders and a very enthusiastic and knowledgeable driver, taking three hours and covering all the LA hot spots including the Hollywood sign, Beverley Hills, Sunset Strip (yes, I did take a picture of the Oppenheim Group but stopped myself from shouting at the driver to halt the bus), Rodeo Drive and the front gates of many famous people’s houses which I have to admit, became a little bit samey after a while. The following day, we were plan free so I took full advantage of this and dragged them all off to the Melrose Trading Post, an outdoor market open every Sunday 9-5 located in the grounds of Fairfax High School, a place full of vintage goodness with lots of see. However, it was fully exposed to the sun and baking hot so after a quick hour perusing, we walked down to The Grove which is a huge shopping/entertainment centre where we had lunch (Ella furiously came to my desk whilst I was writing this to advise that Ekin Su is there this week and we missed her). Quick note: we felt safe pretty much everywhere we went in LA. Downtown is a lot less commercial and due to the rent and housing problems, there are a LOT of homeless people which is a shocking situation but as a family, it was no issue walking around in the evenings.
Where We Ate:
We arrived very late afternoon and the kids were starving so we went just around the block to Shake Shack, one of the places on Leos TikTok to do list. Although I am not a massive burger fan, the burgers were quite frankly amazing, plus they also served wine in a can so I didn’t have to drink a shake. The following day, we walked 20 minutes to Grand Central Market for breakfast on the advice of our Hotel and if there is one place to eat breakfast in LA, then this is it. It was honestly one of my favourite locations that we visited. We ordered from Egg Slut whose breakfast are TO DIE FOR (we have them in London too, apparently) but there are loads of different traders there with a huge variety of food. Super cool. I’d pre booked dinner before we left England at Joeys, based on the fact the menu had food my kids would eat on it and it was a short walk from the Hotel. It was okay, but I’m not sure I would choose it again - it’s below a Hotel and next to a shopping centre and was SUPER busy. Although in fairness, we probably had jet lag. Fast forward to the our final LA day and breakfast was in Loam which was part of our Hotel - I would massively recommend anything in LA that you see breakfast wise involving chia and fruit, so delish. The rest of my family lived on a morning diet of waffles and pancakes, of course. Lunch we ate in El Granjero Catina, next to the Farmers Market by The Grove which was also fab - one thing that we quickly realised is that portions are absolutely huge so you can often get away with just having appetisers. For dinner, we went to Ronan which is a well recommended pizza restaurant in West Hollywood. I found many of the restaurants we ate at via The Infatuation which is a food blog and super helpful. Ronan definitely ranked in our top 2 of the holiday - it’s a small independent but the pizzas are amazing and they also do the most fantastic burrata. Service was brilliant. Oh, a note on service. Tipping is essential everywhere; the expected is 20% but sometimes more. Employed people are often taxed on the expectation that they will receive tips, so it’s important to make sure you include that in your budget. Yes, it whacks the cost up even more - we found that a two course meal for five of us with three non drinkers, a couple of glasses of wine and a beer was around $250-300 every time and that’s in standard fare restaurants. Yes, you can eat in fast food outlets instead but even Shake Shack was $100 for our family for burgers and chips. And don’t even start me on the cost of wine, which starts at $15 minimum for a glass of rose. Be prepared with a large wallet.
Day 4: Santa Barbara via Malibu
Where We Stayed:
When I was booking our Hotels for the trip, the Palisociety Hotels were top of my list. Beautifully decorated and EXACTLY my sort of thing, I was intent on squeezing at least one in over the duration. The Palihouse Santa Barbara was a dream come true - 24 bedrooms, glorious decor and a pool that didn’t have Tinder hook up slapped all over it. It wasn’t the cheapest of my picks - as a result, we all stayed in one big room which delighted the kids, obvs (not) - but it was by far the most beautiful. The rooms were amazing, again with everything that you would need and the beds super comfortable. The reception staff were wonderful and there was a small bar and two social spaces, more of a large private home than a Hotel. Outside there was a central courtyard and a pool with enviable outdoor furniture which I would happily ship over to our garden even though I don’t have a pool. You can also use their bikes if you wanted to go off and explore but to be honest, after three days in a City, we just wanted to sit by the pool and relax for a while. I got so much interior inspiration from this stay; I would go back in a flash.
Where We Went:
We left LA at 9am and stopped at Malibu on the way which was about an hours drive from the Hotel. Many had recommended the Malibu Farm cafe on the pier so we parked up and had breakfast which was excellent. The views were fantastic and I have added a Malibu beach house to my never ending wish list. An hour further on we reached Santa Barbara, also known as the California Riviera, which is full of white low level Mediterranean style stucco buildings (reflecting the towns Spanish heritage). Where did we go? I’m ashamed to say that we didn’t actually go anywhere bar the Hotel. The pool area was so peaceful and the surroundings so appealing that we simply relaxed for the afternoon. Bliss. Note: It was at least 8 degrees colder, even though we were just a couple of hours from LA, and once night fell, you needed a jumper outdoors.
What We Ate:
After a huge breakfast at the Malibu Farm, we managed to hold off until dinner when we had booked a restaurant on the recommendation of the Hotel called Holdrens. It’s a steak restaurant - my families dining of choice 80% of the time - situated on State Street which is the main gastronomic road running through the town. All the main courses come with soup or salad, a fact we didn’t realise and a good reason for always reading the menu properly. It was all delicious - we sat outside and they had heaters above every table. Good for people watching too. The next morning we left the Hotel at 8.30am as we had a four hour journey ahead, so we stopped at Jeannines on the front for cinnamon rolls and excellent coffee. A VERY pretty cafe and I also picked up some mint milk glass mugs, one of my few purchases on our holiday.
Day 5: Monterey via The Big Sur
Where We Stayed:
There wasn’t a great deal of Hotel options in Monterey, I found, when I was scouring Booking.com but I managed to find one that I thought my family would like called the Portola Hotel & Spa. Unfortunately, I had omitted to note that the Monterey Car Rally was taking place the very day of our arrival and as a result, half the roads were shut and our Hotel was surrounded by specialist motor vehicles. After being stopped once by the Police (Joe was terrified) for accidentally turning up the wrong road, we finally had to get the concierge at the Hotel to come to our car to direct us in. The shame. Anyway, I would say that the biggest (some may say only) benefit of this Hotel choice was the fact that it was a two minute walk from the pier which was full of restaurants and cafes.
Where We Went:
So in order to get to Monterey, we had to drive Joe’s dream - the California Highway 1 and the Big Sur. I cannot tell you how many years he has been yearning to do this. It was, as expected, amazing (albeit a lot of mist blocked the view in places) but one thing that Joe had omitted to realise was that parts of it were EXTREMELY HIGH. In fact, so high that you were almost above the clouds in places. Oh, and the roads were slim in places. VERY slim. When I had told people we were driving from LA to San Francisco, many said that we were doing it the wrong way, that we wouldn’t be on the right side of the cliff. I can tell you now that we definitely made the right decision and from Joe’s perspective, we were definitely on the right side of the cliff, ie, next to it and not next to the edge. Regular Instagram followers will know that Joe is not a fan of heights. Anyway, we didn’t spot any whales but we did see some seals and more importantly, many Grand Theft Auto locations which was a trip highlight for the boys. Oh, and we also drove over Bixby Creek Bridge which you may recognise from Big Little Lies (it was PACKED with people taking photos). Once we arrived in Monterey, we headed to the Monterey Bay Aquarium which had been much lauded by my audience. If you like aquariums and being educated about sea life, this is definitely one to visit but my family err on the side of the Griswolds when it comes to such cultural locations (see: Grand Theft Auto point above) so we lasted about 30 minutes before returning to the Hotel. Sigh. It had the most amazing views though and the sea otters were VERY cute.
What We Ate:
Before we hit Monterey, we hit the Big Sur and stopped at Nepenthe, a location with amazing views that has been there since 1949. The restaurant had been recommended but we couldn’t get in as it was crazy busy so we settled for Cafe Kevah which was below and had a quesadilla and salad. It’s also got a brilliant shop beneath which I could have spent hours in but was quickly hustled out by Joe who wanted to reach our destination. We hadn’t made a dinner reservation in Monterey so we decided to risk it for a biscuit and go to the pier, hoping that we would manage to get in somewhere. Next to the pier we discovered something unexpected - a beach full of basking seals which was one of the most amazing things we had ever seen, hundreds of them. We managed to get a table at Domenicos On The Wharf, a traditional seafood restaurant where we ate clam chowder out of sourdough and salmon pasta. So yum.
Day 6-7: San Francisco
Where We Stayed:
Up early the next day, we sped off to San Francisco which was an hour or so north. We dropped our car back at the airport (Joe narrowly missing a bus as we drove into the hire car drop off as he inexplicably headed off on the wrong side of the road) and got an Uber to our Hotel, the Palihotel San Francisco. The same chain as our Santa Barbara location, this one is situated just off Union Square so perfect for accessing pretty much everything. It’s bigger than the Santa Barbara one and the rooms are much smaller but they’ve still got everything you need (including Diptyque toiletries which is a MASSIVE treat). The restaurant was being redecorated so they had a Happy Hour in the reception area each evening where you could take your drinks to the bar area which more than made up for it. There’s a shop next door for snacks and the Hotel will also do you coffee and tea to takeaway if you need it.
Where We Went:
Our location was great and we were able to easily walk to all the major stores - Nordstrom, Barneys, Macys and Saks Fifth Avenue were all within viewing distance. After a fairly lazy arrival day, we’d booked Alcatraz for the following morning which I would hugely recommend - it’s a very moving tour but completely fascinating. Tickets need to be booked well in advance as it’s popular and you arrive half an hour before to board the boat across (top tip: one of the few places we visited that required a mask; if you don’t have one they’ll charge you $2.50 for a paper one so be prepared). The trip took about two hours and we were more than ready for food so we walked around 20 minutes to the Ferry Building which houses the Market Place, full of independent artisan food shops and traders. The Fog City Flea Trading Post within is also worth a visit, again full of independent artists work and vintage stalls. At this point we had a family meltdown (okay, I had a meltdown due to extended proximity to my own children for a significant length of time) so we decided the safest thing was to jump in a cab and go to the Golden Gate Bridge for some fresh air. After initial confusion as to where the Golden Gate Bridge actually was (I know, right), the taxi dropped us off at the Visitor Centre and with no bike hire within view, we walked it. I was still in a massive strop at this point and the Bridge was extremely windy so I didn’t see my children behind me making jokes about hanging myself off the edge with my headscarf with the drama. Hilarious. Family arguments aside, one thing that I will point out is that it’s very high. Joe walked ahead of us on a mission to reach the other side as fast as he possibly could without looking over the edge (see point above for Joe’s height issues). We didn’t hire bikes (although that had been our original intention) but I think if we had, Joe would have struggled even more than he did, especially with the concept of 13 year old Leo haphazardly setting out into the distance and possibly flinging himself over the edge. Anyway, the views are good and it’s free which is miraculous so well worth it. Side note: we got an Uber back across, ha.
What We Ate:
Upon arrival, we headed to Mel’s Drive In which was just around the corner from our Hotel. Classic burgers and chips in a classic American diner was exactly what was required and it was delicious. That evening, we took an Uber to Fishermans Wharf. The last time I went there was 22 years ago on a work trip and it seemed to have become significantly more commercial but it’s a brilliant place if you are there with kids as there is lots to do and it’s really pretty. I had managed to book a last minute table at a restaurant called Cioppinos, a traditional American style diner with football on the TV and leather booths which was perfect. I had the Cioppino which is a seafood broth filled with prawns, clams and full lobster claws and it was SO GOOD. The second day, we got El Porteno empanadas from the Market Place and ate them in the sunshine, then went to The Monks Kettle which was in Mission for dinner, a restaurant I found via The Infatuation website. Excellent burgers and again, a smaller independent that’s well worth visiting.
Day 8-10: Santa Monica
Where We Stayed:
After the long drive up, we decided to fly back down to LA and spend our last few days relaxing in Santa Monica which is around 20 minutes out of the City. I booked flights with American Airlines and it was very easy - $250 for all five of us and it only took just over an hour. Side note: UK budget airlines could learn a lot from AA - the seats were padded and SIGNIFICANTLY more comfortable than the metal braces that often accompany a trip here. After the sex pond fiasco of the Ace, we (the kids) were keen that the final destination be a pool style beach Hotel where they were at no risk of being accosted by anyone in miniature neon swimwear on the pull with a margarita. I’d firstly reserved The Fairmont Miramar but then decided it was too costly and moved our booking to the Viceroy Santa Monica which was very Instagram friendly (the joy of free cancellation on Booking.com cannot be underestimated). However, after a closer look we decided that there was a possible hint of it being more Instagram friendly than family friendly and we swapped our booking to the Loews Santa Monica Beach Hotel. This turned out to be a very good move from the kids point of view in particular - the bedrooms were big and spacious and Max (who was by this point an expert in sofa beds) had his best sofa so far. It was very modern, clean and there was a whole section at the front overlooking the beach where you could reserve fire pit loungers in the evening. It was the closest Hotel to Santa Monica Pier and right on the boardwalk so the location couldn’t have been better. Okay, it wasn’t as Instagram worthy as the Viceroy (or the Santa Monica Proper Hotel which is where I wanted to stay but was well off the financial charts) but it was perfect for our family and an excellent choice.
Where We Went:
So the first stop was a trip to see The LA Rams at Sofi Stadium, an activity that had been on Joe’s wish list for years. I’ve never been to an American football game before but GODAMMIT it’s a whole new world, although in fairness none of us had any idea what was going on. So much fun, significantly more fun than our often monotonous 90 minutes over here in the UK. We hired bikes for two hours from the Santa Monica boardwalk to cycle to Venice Beach. It’s around 15 minutes to cycle there so you actually only need your bike for an hour, a rookie error on our part. What we didn’t realise, of course, is that once you HAVE a bike, you are stuck with it so you can forget about shopping or stopping for a drink as if you left it, it would be pilfered within moments. We also hadn’t realised that our Hotel also had bikes - almost all the Hotels will have bikes for loan free of charge. Honestly. Anyway, after cycling to Venice Beach and back we ditched the bikes and walked it instead. It’s a brilliant walk - around 30 minutes - with loads to see; just make sure you don’t veer into the cycle lanes or you’ll be lambasted. If you asked my children to name their favourite holiday excursion, they would say without doubt Venice Beach - give them a constant fog of weed, endless street stalls selling sometimes questionable goods, magic mushroom vendors and a plethora of tourist shops with pants in the window saying ‘Mikes Ass’ on the bum and they’re happy. We spent the evening at Santa Monica Pier alongside, it seemed, most of LA which was an experience in itself, coming away with a flammable teddy won by Ella for Buddy that effectively cost almost £25. Ripped. By the second day, we realised that Santa Monica was no different than any European country in that in order to secure sunbeds, you needed to be up by 7am so we spent a long day by the pool which by this time, was much needed.
What We Ate:
We had breakfast in the Hotel and it was good - no one makes waffles and pancakes the way that they do in America, let’s face it. Our Venice Beach visit ended in lunch at The Sidewalk Cafe which was chosen purely on the fact that it wasn’t in direct sunlight but actually turned out to be excellent - tacos, burgers and loaded chips. I’m surprised we could even move after ten days of this, tbf. I scoured high and low for a final night booking, having received plenty of recommendations from my Instagram audience, most of which were fully booked due to my lack of planning (Elephante was the one that got away). However, I managed to get a booking at The Golden Bull, listed at number 1 in the top 20 classic American LA restaurants and a ten minute drive from our Hotel. We finally got to sample lobster rolls which I am now intent on recreating at home, plus the best fillet steak of the trip. The service was fab too and we sat in a huge curved leather booth. The finale? A S’mores casserole which I can tell you will be coming to a Reel near you VERY SOON.
We really did have the best of times. It was a completely different holiday to anything that we had undertaken before but it all went to plan and we feel extremely grateful and indeed, privileged, that our kids have been able to experience such a trip with us and are hopeful they’ll remember it forever. Ten days was enough - my children shared a room the entire trip and their tolerance levels were varied. We spent more money than we ever had dreamed we would due to the high cost of living in the USA and may well be eating beans on toast for the next six months, but it was worth every penny.