My first trip to Mallorca was many years ago in the early nineties, so many years, in fact, that I can hardly remember anything about it other than we went to an all inclusive hotel in Alcudia which was heavily populated by men in football shirts. It had an array of evening entertainment including a hypnotist who would get residents up on to the stage and make them bark like dogs and holiday rep troupes who would harness the kids for the Macarena whilst we sipped lukewarm wine amongst a throng of sunburnt Silk Cut smokers. The importance of the holiday kids disco didn’t become apparent until ten years later when Joe and I had our own - half an hour to yourselves whilst your four year old was taken off to do the Cha Cha Slide was equivalent to being handed a bar of solid gold. In those early holidaying years, if the brochure didn’t have Kids Mini Disco in the description, we tossed it aside without a second thought.
The next time I flew into Palma was 2018 and a whole different ball game - we had our own kids who were old enough not to be watched in the pool (as any parent will know, this is a LANDMARK moment) and whose only evening requests involved going into Cala D’Or to sneak into shisha bars when we weren’t looking. We stayed in Porto Petro, on the South East of the island, and fell in love with this little harbour filled with restaurants overlooking the sea, going out in the evening to sample tapas and drink cold Spanish Rose.

As a family, we have always put a lot of store by holidays. Both Joe and I work long hours and weekends, our family time is often non existent and even eating at the same table is an irregular occurrence. We’ve prioritised breaks where we are together ever since they were old enough to walk - prior to that we’d go with friends but as the children got older, we have always made the most of a week or two where it’s only us. We’ve plunged our money into holiday funds rather than spend on other things and have always planned a year in advance so that we have something to look forward to. Family life can be - and generally is - loud and shouty and quite frankly bloody stressful, but the second that we are packed and ready to go, it’s as if my children have had personality transplants. At the risk of sounding like a knob, we really do enjoy the time together without distraction. I know, right?

Over the last year and a half, the word ‘holiday’ has become a beacon of hope as Covid has battered its way through our lives but finally, things are starting to look up and it does appear - fingers crossed - that there is light at the end of what has a been a very long and very crap tunnel. Flights are back on, holidays are being booked and leaving the UK has never felt so good. Okay, so it’s not QUITE as easy as it used to be to get there - testing is an unwelcome addition to the standard holiday preparation but essential if we want restrictions to continue reducing. There are also hurdles to jump over - waiting for ‘Negative’ means that it’s not even worth starting to pack until you’ve got a clear test which feels truly like living on the edge if you have obsessive organisational tendencies such as I. However, we decided it was worth the risk. Mostly because we had two sets of flights that we had booked months ago that needed to be transferred as they were non refundable. Any excuse, really.

So Mallorca was our destination of choice and after finding what seemed to be the perfect Airbnb finca in the town of Soller, we threw caution to the wind and booked. I broke the exciting news to the kids who immediately googled and announced that it wasn’t Magaluf and as far as they could see, was not blessed with any nightclubs or shisha bars. I batted straight back with pictures of Instagrammable clifftop restaurants complete with cool people wearing floaty dresses, advising them that the North West of Mallorca was basically Ibiza and if they wanted to go to Magaluf then they could a) go with their friends and b) pay for it themselves. This was a family holiday, not Sun, Sex & Suspicious Parents, ffs. We embarked on the testing process with hearts in mouths and came through with flying colours. Miraculously, quite frankly, seeing as Ella had gone to the Races the week before and got totally trollied in the County Stand. Here’s all the details of where we went, what we did and how we got there.

Let’s Start With The Basics. Where Is Soller?

So, Soller is on the North West of Mallorca, approximately 35 minutes in the car from Palma on a nice direct road. We like a nice direct road (more of that later). It’s pronounced Soy-Ah (discovered after a million people messaged me to say that I was pronouncing it wrong) - in Spanish, I discovered, a double L is pronounced closer to a Y (thus Mallorca is May-Yorca and paella is pay-ya). The town of Soller is 4km from Port De Soller - the town, the port, Biniaraix and Fornalutx combine to form Soller (yes, I did Wiki this fact). We stayed in the town itself which is centred around a busy square surrounded by cafes and restaurants, perfect for people watching. The wooden tram goes directly through the centre and runs between Palma right through to the Port and although we didn’t try it, it looked like an excellent way to see that part of the island. There are bakerys, delis (filled with delicious meats and cheese) and shops in the town that are perfect for perusing and everywhere you look there are orange trees. We went at the end of orange season and they weren’t suitable for eating but apparently if you go in May it’s a pick them off the tree, all you can eat type situation. It's a fairly hilly town but extremely pretty with Instagrammable views at every turn. There’s a busy beach at Port de Soller lined with restaurants and bars called Platja De Repic where you can rent gloriously flowing palm leaf sun umbrellas with sunbeds beneath for around €10 a day. If you don’t take the tram, you can park close to both ends of the beach for €6 for 24 hours. It’s not what I would consider a tourist town and is perfect for a family holiday (unless your kids want to go hardcore clubbing in which case send them to Magaluf).

How Did We Get There?

I cannot lie and say that the pre travel planning wasn’t stressful. We live in (almost) post Covid times and jumping on a plane last minute for a quick break is no longer an option. Spanish Government regulations require that anyone who isn’t fully vaccinated needs a negative PCR test no more than 72 hours before departure and I can only compare the trauma of awaiting the results for four children less than two days before you go on holiday to exchanging on a house. Covid has allegedly been proven to stay in your system up to 90 days - NINETY DAYS - after you’ve had it and although none of my children had tested positive in the last six months, we had no idea if they would be clear. We used Randox - booked online about 10 days in advance - who sent us the appropriate tests which the kids then undertook at the kitchen table. We then followed instructions by registering their tests online and going to the local Randox drop off point before the deadline of 3pm that day. We then had a nail biting wait until the results were emailed to us at lunchtime the next day. Negative, all four (Ella brought her boyfriend, Lucas, too). Praise be.

Flights were with Jet2 from Leeds Bradford and we turned up at 4am with the following printed off and placed in a nice plastic envelopment (I am ALWAYS efficient when it comes to travel): Joe and I’s Covid vaccine passes (go to the NHS app and register and you can receive it as a PDF), negative PCR certificates for the kids and Passenger Locator forms in order to enter Spain which came with a barcode (can be found on the Spanish Government website for completion up to 48 hours before you travel). I also took with me six Antigen tests from Qured (with prebooked video calls for all six of us scheduled for 72 hours before we returned to the UK). Prior to departure, I had ordered and received six Day 2 PCR tests (again from Randox) that we would undertake two days after the return home. It’s worth noting that when you fill in the UK Passenger Locator form to come home (again, 48 hours before you travel) that they will ASK YOU for the code on your Day 2 test to confirm that you have bought it and booked it in. Yes, it’s quite complicated. But worth the effort.

We hired a car from Hertz which we collected at the airport. When I say car, it was more akin to a minibus as there were six of us with three suitcases so a nice little sporty number was out of the question, unfortunately for Joe. We didn’t realise when we collected our minibus quite what an impact the size of our vehicle would have on our holiday, but we were soon to find out. Soller and the surrounding area is full of tiny, winding roads. Roads up hills, roads which curved around 45 degree angles, roads with no space to pass another car unless you reversed back for half a mile and worst of all, roads that did all of these things at once but were also ON THE SIDE OF ACTUAL MOUNTAINS. We arrived in Soller via the lovely, straight dual carriageway that is the MA11 and within three minutes of negotiating the winding streets, Joe had a contretemps with a lorry driver on a tiny bridge and damaged the left hand side of the car in four places. Post this event, every car outing was accompanied by Joe morphing into an angry Basil Fawlty so it wasn’t long before we decided that walking everywhere was MUCH more pleasurable. Sigh. Note to self: next time leave a couple of children at home and hire a Fiat Uno.

Where Did We Stay?

Right, now it’s safe to say that booking anywhere for a family holiday during these times is difficult as you don’t know whether or not you will actually be able to go on holiday until 48 hours before you go due to test results. A fully vaccinated couple? You’re winning. Fully vaccinated couple with four kids? Loser written all over your forehead, I’m afraid. Yes, you can get insurance (I took the Jet2 Covid insurance, btw, as I didn’t want to take any chances) but the hassle of potentially having to get your money back from a villa or holiday company is SO MUCH STRESS. I headed to Airbnb (where many hosts have good refund policies - this one was cancellable up to the day before) and quickly discovered that everyone else had had the same idea as available property was literally disappearing before my very eyes. After a few hours of trawling, I struck gold with a six bedroomed finca called Cas Fiols owned by Emma and Tommy who had lived in Soller for 17 years. It was a twelve minute walk into the town, with fabulous mountain views and a pool that my family barely surfaced from over the course of seven days. In addition to this loveliness, there was a tennis court which meant that my naturally competitive family could battle it out whilst I lay by the pool reading a book. Lots of books, in fact. The finca was stuffed full of gorgeous antique pieces and a dazzling array of tiles that satisfied my interior urges, along with a pond complete with four turtles and a massive fish called Big Bertha. What more could we ask for? Not a lot, quite frankly. You can see a video of the finca which I took when we were there by clicking here.

What Did We Do?

Not that much, tbh. We were too busy waking up at 9.30 am and lazing around all morning in our pyjamas before lazing around all afternoon in our swimming costumes, prior to leaving the house for dinner. A year and a half of lockdown had taken its toll and it was total heaven not to have to do anything at all and even more heavenly to not be in either a) our own home or b) the UK. We took a trip to Palma (mostly because it was due to be cloudy) and had a wander around the shops but the sun returned with a vengeance so we didn’t stay long. Palma is a good day trip though - lots of shops and very beautiful architecture (I did a girls weekend there before lockdown hit - click here to read). We went to Deia to visit a restaurant on the coast (details below), the route to which was winding road central, edge of your seat stuff, but Deia was beautiful, the sort of place I can imagine myself in a stone villa with pool overlooking the sea wearing a floaty dress and drinking rose. We tried to go for cocktails at La Residencia as suggested by my audience but there was no parking, godammit. We went to the beach at Port de Soller and swam in the sea and visited the little shops that lined the harbour, fulfilling my need to add more ceramics to my ever growing collection. Basically, we holidayed with no plan, no routine and no commitment and it was BLOODY AMAZING.

Where Did We Eat?

Booking in advance is absolutely essential and I’m pretty sure that’s actually nothing to do with Covid - the popular restaurants are REALLY popular and are often booked up days in advance. There were a few that were recommended to us that I failed miserably to get into thanks to poor planning - Ca’n Pintxo (tapas restaurant in Soller), Kingfisher Restaurant (Mediterranean restaurant in Port de Soller) and Luna 36 (pasta restaurant in Soller). Also, we were given suggestions of restaurants outside of our immediate area but Joe couldn’t cope with the minibus/life and death road situation so we stayed close - however, if you were driving a smaller car and didn’t mind taking an hour to drive five miles then you can definitely widen the scope. Here’s where we went. NB: Bear in mind when reading this list that some of my family members only eat food the colour beige and wouldn’t go near a prawn if it was the only food left standing in the Universe.

Sa Granja, Soller: We actually ate here no less than THREE times. Situated on the main square in Soller and a mere 15 minute walk from our finca, it was suggested by a local Instagram account (@sollermeandmrb who are doing up not just one but TWO townhouses in this place of dreams) and was perfect for my family. Alongside traditional paella and an extensive tapas menu, there was pizza, big salads and sandwiches, ideal for my ridiculously fussy kids, plus an excellent wine list and cocktails.

La Casona De Soller, Soller: Again set on the town square, this beautiful restaurant is surrounded by orange trees and has the most Instagrammable black and white floor that I saw on our travels. The menu is traditional but they also do steak and chips (again, satisfying my kids) and some excellent ciabatta sandwiches. We had both breakfast and dinner here and it’s a great place to sit and watch the tram go by. Very pretty.

La Sal, Port de Soller: Overlooking the harbour, this was the first place that we visited when we arrived and it was perfect. I’m pretty sure it’s part of a chain and it has lovely views, excellent people watching and right next to the ice cream shed for dessert. As well as an excellent tapas list they do burgers, salads and tacos and the service was quick and efficient. Inside it’s super pretty with an indoor courtyard complete with giant cactus. We also had dinner here one evening and it was just as good.

Es Reco, Platja D’en Repic, Port de Soller: We happened upon this restaurant by chance when at the beach, positioned just behind the palm tree brollies in a shady spot. You can set up for the day just in front of it and then make your reservation for lunch. The menu was perfect - tapas, salads, fresh seafood and sandwiches plus pizza (Leo can basically never get enough pizza) with views across the bay. I had ceviche and it was DELISH, super fresh and made me feel vaguely healthy after scoffing copious amounts of bread and alioli which was standard at every meal and completely delicious.

Patiki Beach, Platja D’en Repic, Port de Soller: This was recommended by an Instagram friend and I had to book two weeks in advance to get a table and even then, we could only get a late lunch. Set next to Es Reco, it’s super pretty with lots of wicker shades and comfortable seats. The menu is amazing - it’s based on sharing plates and is full of fresh ingredients and colour. I have to admit that Joe and I wished we had made a reservation WITHOUT the kids as it wasn’t their kind of thing tbh (aka not beige) but our meal was delicious. Definitely worth a visit.

Restaurant Randemar, Port de Soller: Another suggestion via Instagram and it was a winner. Situated on the promenade at the Port, it ticked many boxes for our family and the food was fab - I had seabass, Joe linguine and the kids had burgers. Happiness abounded. In addition, the decor was cool and there was a DJ situated directly above us who bore more than a passing resemblance to Boxer from White Lines. One of our more pricier dining choices but worth it.

Ca’s Patro March, Deia: Suggested by basically the whole of my following who have ever visited Mallorca, this restaurant was one of the locations for The Night Manager and was worth the rocky drive to get there. Accessed via a steep road with a car park close to the bottom, it’s situated on the rock face and is Instagram heaven. It was virtually impossible to get a table - I called for two weeks prior to departure and then by complete fluke someone answered the phone the day before - BUT on looking today, they have linked a new website in their bio so that should make it a lot easier. Bear in mind it’s cash only - we knew this but forgot (ffs) and as a result, only had enough cash on us for a main course and annoyingly couldn’t afford the lobster (it wasn’t even our cash, it was Ella’s boyfriend Lucas’s spending money) so make sure you come prepared. Excellent for sunset photos. NB: There’s also a sardine restaurant opposite which was closed when we were there that also comes with good reviews and apparently takes cards, ha.

What Can I Buy?

Oh, lots. We usually travel with only hand luggage but this time I added a suitcase last minute as I KNEW I wouldn’t be able to resist. We missed the market - it’s on a Saturday in Soller - but there are a few lovely shops to visit which should satisfy your interior urges. Talayot was situated in Soller and had an abundance of loveliness on show, including some well priced jewellery including earrings and bracelets which I picked up for Ella and I. I also twice visited Sa Posada De L’Artesa which is close to La Sal in the Port which was a bit of a treasure trove - it was hard to convince myself that I didn’t need the layered capiz shell light but I failed completely when it came to the fabric and bought two lots of traditional Mallorcan blue for the new glass roof room. I also came home with plenty of tapas dishes so that I could relive my Spanish meal dreams back in York. I missed out on visiting the big outdoor ceramic shop just off the roundabout on the MA11 (again, car issues ffs) but if I had, I would definitely have been shipping some big pots home. And finally, we made a quick trip to Palma mostly so that I could pop into Rialto Living - pricey, but oh so pretty.

So in summary? Leaving the country in general was a dream come true and we appreciated how lucky we were to have been able to do so in current conditions, but the location exceeded our expectations. Soller is beautiful, green and lush with beauty at every turn and completely unspoilt. We struck gold with our Airbnb (we’ve had some misses in the past) and although my children are partial to properties that bear more resemblance to porn star palaces, they loved the space and pool and it was perfect for our group. The holidays that we take now are different from the ones that we had when they were small - they’re almost adults. Aged 19, 17 and 12, the time with the older ones is running out and I am starting to feel anxiety around this fact. Although those holidays that we took when they were little were more hellish endurance tests than a time to relax, we have great memories and are still intent on travelling as much as possible and giving them every single opportunity to experience other countries and cultures together as a family whilst we still can. Before they bugger off to Magaluf to follow their foam party/shisha bar/Love Island/Inbetweeners dreams and don’t want to come away with US anymore, basically. Sob. Anyway, I digress. The holiday was a great success - Joe and I loved it; against their better judgement, the kids loved it and none of us were even nearly ready to come home. Soller, we will be back.

How We Holiday: Soller, Mallorca